I’m a midi noob so this might be a dumb question. I’m strongly considering the MC6 Mk2 to control my Blooper and want to know if my planned layout of the MC6 functions is possible. I think it is but am concerned about 1 thing:
I would like the lower left MC6 footswitch to act identically to the left switch of the blooper. So it can RECORD, PLAY, OVERDUB with short taps and if held for longer the RECORD is in 1-shot mode.
Based on what I understand of the blooper’s midi functions:
CC1 is record
CC2 is play
CC3 is overdub
CC9 is one shot overdub
Is this possible to setup on a single MC6 footswitch–having record or play or overdub occur with single tap and one shot overdub with long tap? Is it possible to send CC1 CC2 and CC3 simultaneously and blooper will know which one to use (ie if it’s recording it knows to stop recording and start playing, or if it’s playing it knows to start overdubbing when the switch is pressed again.)
Or is this functionality in CC11 “Multi-control”
Thanks for enlightening this midi noob.
Hmm…been doing some research and it looks like it’s pretty hard to get one switch to do record, play, overdub, and 1-shot overdub. Could probably get 2 switches to work though? I am probably better off using a momentary switcher for the left blooper switch functions and midi controller for other stuff.
Now I’m also seeing there are potential issues running both midi clock and midi cc into blooper. Hopefully I don’t have issues as I would like to sync a drum machine too.
I think this video may help you out - it’s with a HX stomp but you probably need to just change the CC values. It’s definitely sending out 4 different CC values with one footswitch. I don’t have a blooper but it looks like this may do what you need? Hopefully someone who owns a blooper can help here, I’m struggling to understand how the blooper itself works without having one in front of me 
In terms of Midi clock and midi CC, sending midi clock over an omniport can be a bit buggy - at least with my timeline, it worked 98% of the time but sometimes the timeline would freak out and stop working. If you run into issues, pick up the chase bliss midi box (only $59) and put that in your DIN5 midi cable loop, it should get rid of any midi clock weirdness related to the omniport.
Edit: I think I understand the problem now - the shift state lets you only record after you’ve erased the looper, but if you’re using the hold preset to do a one shot overdub instead of erasing, there’s no obvious way to get back to a shift state. Unless somebody has a better idea, it looks like your options are indeed using two footswitches or using a momentary switcher for the left blooper functions (I don’t think you’d be able to use both an external footswitch and midi at the same time though).
If you were to use two footswitches, you’d probably want to have one footswitch to record (press) /erase (long press) and have the other play (toggle pos 1), overdub (Toggle pos 2), and one shot overdub (long press in both positions)
Thanks James that’s really informative. I think for now I’ll get the CB midi box so I can clock sync to my drum machine and keep using a momentary switch for blooper left switch functions and expression pedal to transition through the layers. Then later I will likely add the MC6 for more precise control of the layers, turning modifiers on/off, stopping the loop, erasing the loop. If I can get the MC6 to do the full left switch functions on just one of it’s switches then that’s a bonus.
You’ll want to make sure the CB midi box is compatible with the drum machine - there are different midi standards for TRS and it looks like the chase bliss midi box only supports ring active pedals (so chase bliss and empress but not much else)
The disaster area midi box 4 looks like it has dip switches to change the TRS scheme
Thanks for the advice. I did not know that. However, I think I’m ok in my situation because I will be using the 5 pin midi connections.
Boss DR5 (for midi clock control only) → standard midi cable → Midi Box
Midi Box Thru -->standard midi cable–> Volca Beats
Midi Box trs output–>split cable rs to trs–>Blooper
Boss FU5 nonlatching switch–>split cable ts to trs–>Blooper
Assuming this works I will start with the CB midi box and one of those rare cables (I think Hosa makes them?) And add the MC6 as the next step.
Chase Bliss Midi Box Manual says:
MIDI IN: Connect the output from your MIDI controller or the preceding MIDI device in your
chain here.
9V DC: Connect a standard 9V DC center-negative power supply here. The MIDI Box need
approximately 10mA, but if your power supply provides more that is OK.
MIDI THRU: Connect this to the next MIDI device in your chain, if you have one.
CONTROL PORTS A B C D: Connect these to your Chase Bliss or Empress devices. If you’re
connecting to a Chase Bliss device you will need to use a TRS / stereo cable. If you’re
connecting to an Empress pedal, then you can use a TS / mono cable but you will need to move
the jumper inside the pedal for the output you’d like to use.
INTERNAL JUMPERS: The MIDI Box comes set from the factory to control Chase Bliss
devices. If you wish to use it to connect to one or more Empress pedals, simply open the box
by removing the screws from the lid and move the internal jumper(s) on the outputs you’d like to
change. The board is marked CBA and EMP for Chase Bliss and Empress, respectively. The
jumpers should be connected to two pins on the board - center and one end. If you lose the
jumpers or if they are not connected to two pins on the board that output will no longer work.
Please contact Chase Bliss to order more jumpers if required.
I think the Blooper lets you do an external footswitch or TRS midi - I don’t think you’re able to do both. The top jack takes Midi or an aux switch, and the bottom jack takes expression control or CV expression control.
If you want to use the FU5 nonlatching switch you’ll be unable to use midi at the same time.
That is incorrect I believe. I have read in several places including here that there is a split cable that is trs at one end (goes into blooper midi/ext) and the other ends have tip-sleeve and ring-sleeve and go into the external switch and midibox respectively.
You’re also regarding the cb midibox. It can be switched internally to work with non-chase bliss pedals as well.
Just in case it might be helpful, I just posted a “tutorial” on how to replicate the functions and behavior of the two buttons on a Chase Bliss Blooper on an MC3 (or any other Morningstar MIDI controller).
It’s here: Using two buttons on an MC3 (or MC6, etc.) to replicate the two buttons on a CB Blooper.