I would like to drill 12 holes in a rockboard plate so I can mount my ML10x into my pedalboard - the accessory covers that Rockboard sell perfectly cup the ML-10x’s sockets, but being thick black steel, I need some reference to drill accurately - I am sure I could trace it out but I am also sure I would fail in the accuracy.
Any chance a dimension/schematic type diagram (just of the rear face) could be made available so I can print out a drill guide?
Manged to get around to this today. Got a working outcome, though I am not super proud of the quality of the job. I am relatively handy and have a good range of tools, plus a wife who’s a designer and was able to print this confidently to a 1:1 scale, but I myself am not the most precise 'measurer’ and I tend to rush into ‘cut twice’ mode pretty quickly.
Warnings:
I would not recommend trying this unless you have a set of callipers and a drill press at least.
I don’t think this can be done without removing the 6.5mm retaining bolts and opening the unit itself to tease the thread out far enough to get through the rockboard plate to be rebolted - there are washers on the inner face of these 6.5mm inputs that can come loose and go walkabout if you don’t do this carefully.
My process:
I started by checking the dims with my callipers then gluing the printed drawing onto MDF and drilling that to do a test fit.
Then I used that MDF template to hold and guide drilling into the plate.
I had the ‘template’ side of the rockboard insert facing up into the MDF template holes so I could reliably align the faceplate - the back side is just flat back so it’s pretty hard to see if you have it centred right otherwise.
After I drilled the first plate this way, I realised it wouldn’t fit into the board properly - I wanted the inputs under the board and the screen sticking out of the rockboard accessory slot - this orientation gave me the opposite.
The 12 6.5mm sockets are not 1:1 when flipped, but it’s pretty close when you’ve drilled some additional wiggle room into the rockboard plate - I was able to flip it over and the only hole I needed to redrill was the power input - it’s a bit shoddy as you can see - I will probably widen this hole later.
For the next plate, I drilled it the ‘right’ way, but this introduced a new problem - the plate itself bent a bit - I think I was rushing and not clamping properly so YMMV.
Will post some more when I get it installed - just redoing my board ATM.
I think this approach has a lot of potential, and may have turned out better in more patient and skilled hands. It’s just on the edge of fitting dimensionally, but does get there in the end.
@james I reckon there might be a small market for a 3d printed official version of this!
